Day 15

It was time to leave Burin today and head back into St. John’s. It’s hard to believe we’ve packed so much into just over 24 hours. We were so looking forward to sharing St. John’s and the Avalon with Cliff and Liz, that while we could have done so much more there, we were excited to head to the city.

As we travel, David drives and Cliff sits up front with him on moose watch! With more than 700 moose-vehicle collisions each year, Cliff has a pretty important job. The moose population in Newfoundland is estimated between 120,000 and 150,000. That’s a pretty big number when you realize the human population is only 510,901! With the b’ys looking after those details, Liz and I sit in the back seat and peruse a map of the island helping her to become familiar with the geography of Newfoundland.

Here, you are either a townie or a bayman. While we will spend the rest of our visit as townies in St. John’s, spending some time in a small coastal community gave Cliff and Liz a taste of being a bayman. The map helped to see we’d been in Placentia Bay and also that we plan to visit St. Mary’s Bay and Conception Bay before we leave. Now studying a map of Newfoundland predictably leads to a discussion of colourful nomenclature. And understanding how much fun it is each time we “go with the flow”, we found ourselves suddenly on the road to Dildo.

The Dildo Dory Grill, overlooking the busy wharf, was the perfect spot, finally, for a plate of cod tongues – and yes, Cliff and Liz did try them – only one, though since even this friendship does not extend beyond that much sharing!

Then on to the scheduled stop at the Grumpy Goat Gallery at the Crabby Cat Cottage! Hilarious since the two artists, Pam and Cara live in a sample of their paintings! Sharon (our friend at the Newfoundland Arts Council) told us to be sure to visit them. It was great advice and we bought a wall display that will make me smile every time I look at it!

Coming into St. John’s, we headed to the Yellowbelly Brewery for dinner and spent some time cruising around St. John’s, allowing Cliff and Liz to orient themselves to the city so they are primed and ready to go tomorrow! Moo's ice cream and the view of the city from Signal Hill at night finished the day.

First venturing on to George Street

Day 14

Waking to an early morning fog, I lay in bed at the Wheel House Inn and let the peace of the stillness fill my soul. As I’m sure I’ve already mentioned, Burin has much fog and while I, like the locals, would miss the sun after days of the stuff, there is something about a foggy day that causes me to take a deep breath, and enjoy the cool, peaceful comfort of the mist.

Before long the smells of breakfast cooking had us up, showered and sharing a breakfast table with Glen and Carol from Nova Scotia and Mas and Ruby from Alberta. Following breakfast we checked with Hal, our host, to see if there was anything that fell in the “not to be missed” category. He offered a map of Burin, told us where to find the local heritage buildings and we set out deciding that was enough of a start.

Wheel House Inn

Yet again … what a day – filled with surprises and adventures that the most careful of planning could not orchestrate. I think I’ve come to the conclusions (with some help from Liz) that the best vacations are offered when you’re open to whatever might happen. Newfoundland is a wonderland for that sort of fun.

On our first stop we discovered that the heritage building didn’t open until noon. The area boasted a gift shop, art gallery, Scotia Bank museum, a café, and heritage homestead. Like the rest of Newfoundland, these were all nestled at the edge of the sea. This particular section of shoreline hosted a boardwalk over the water, a cold storage facility and the Canadian Coastguard. Little did we know at first discovery that these would all play a major role as another magnificent day unfolded on The Rock! Now I should mention that someone did drive by as we were in front of the art gallery. He stopped and offered to go get us a key since it was not to be missed – only in Newfoundland! We assured him it wasn’t necessary and we would return.

Given that everything was closed we decided to walk along the boardwalk and appreciate the beautiful scenery. And beautiful it is indeed. The fog was alive by the time we ventured out, shifting and changing to reveal new vistas from moment to moment. The water in the bay was still and crystal clear, meaning the beauty of the landscape was reflected in the sea – doubly beautiful and thrilling David and Liz as they happily snapped and Cliff and I strolled.

Sea Rocks

It wasn’t long before we happened on a momma and her nine newly hatched ducklings wandering along the bank. We watched with delight. As every mother knows, every brood has one little critter just marching to his own drum. Next thing we knew one little chickie fell over the bank into the ocean! The next 20 minutes or so was immensely entertaining as momma worked to reunite her offspring. She very quickly abandoned the others and dropped down to the water to be with her wanderer. In short order another chick, curious as to what was happening below, ventured too close to the edge and reunited with a splash. Poor momma went back and forth between the ones on the bank and the ones in the water. After some time, help arrived in the form of an elderly gentleman. He had brought bread for the ducks but once he discovered their dilemma promptly abandoned the bread and mounted a rescue mission. Now all that sounds like a lovely thing except the man was in his 80s!!! Perching at the edge of the moss covered rocks; he slipped and shuffled along shooing the ducklings into the sea. The drama quickly switched to my fear that he would join momma in the water and I would be following him into the frigid water to mount my own rescue mission! Silly really since I should have remembered that Newfoundlanders are a hardy lot and this man had surely spent his life balancing at the edge of the sea. Ducks unharmed, returned to their mother’s side, bread crumbs dispensed and all humans safe and sound on shore; we finished our stroll by the sea.

Heading back to the car we were stopped by a skipper happening by in his dory. He stopped just to say good day, welcome us to Burin and wish us a grand stay – not the end of that story. We also met a couple of men working at the Coast Guard vessel docked at the wharf. They also offered a good morning and invited us back to tour the Coast Guard vessel. They suggested if we came back around 2:30 and told any of the men in the office that we would like a tour in the vessel they would be happy to accommodate. Curious, but this is Newfoundland so we agreed to return – not the end of that story. The man in the doorway of the cold storage, a large bunker like building built into the side of the hill, told us we should come back at 7:00 since there was a time planned – and that is certainly not the end of that story!

The old man and the sea...

We spent mid day just wandering. Playing, searching for beach glass, exploring, taking pictures … as you can see managed to amuse ourselves quite nicely.

Reflections on Burin

Returning to the harbor centre in Burin we discovered that the W. Jackman, the coast guard vessel, had sailed. It was only 2:40 and he’d said about so I was very disappointed. Now I might have done well to remember that this was the first time on this while holiday that something hadn’t turned to gold at our touch. Nonetheless, easily spoiled, we were disappointed.

We went back up to the heritage buildings that were now open and found that they were indeed charming and worth the return trip. By the time we were ready to head back to the car just over an hour later, the Jackman had returned and we drifted down to the dock. Now Phonse Murphy, first seamen on the vessel assured us that we had been misled. As we had first suspected, the Jackman is a working vessel and doesn’t do “tours”. He seemed to find it amusing that someone had tried to fool us but offered, since we were there, to “give us a look around ‘er”. As it happens, Phonse Murphy was from Stephenville Crossing, a little town near where we once lived. He and I hit it off and we had a tour and boarded the busiest vessel in the coast guard fleet! Due to Burin’s proximity to the Grand Banks and the Hibernia Oil Field, the Jackman sees a lot of action. Phonse likened their job to that of a fireman. If there is no emergency there is nothing much to do and the job is great but they are the ones called when no one else will go. A Newfoundlander to the core, he greatly amused Cliff and Liz with his tales – when they could understand him! They told me after that they let me do the talking since they understood what I said they could piece together most of what Phonse regaled. Cliff’s favourite story was Phonse telling of the high seas since most of their work is done in stormy weather. The bridge of the vessel is quite small and the four men on board are in pretty close quarters. He says when the other seamen make a sandwich he reminds them to be sure to make it as he likes it. “By da time dey gets it made and ready to eat, it’s over in front a me mout.” We never did discover who had tried to pull one over on us but it led to a great adventure so we had the last laugh.

Phonse and me

Following supper at the heritage café we again drifted down to the sea, this time to the cold storage facility. Burin boasted the first cold storage facility on the island so for years it has been a significant port for fishermen from all over the world as they come to Burin to collect bait. The original cold storage bunker has been converted to a community hall of sorts and on Wednesday evenings the town gathers. Someone volunteers to get out a guitar, accordion, fiddle, etc. and the town has a scuff! Wouldn’t you know it – these charmed travelers just happen to be visiting Burin on a Wednesday. As we ventured in the woman at the door asked if I was from around here. When she spoke I knew immediately that I knew her. Since we were both completely out of the context of where we knew one another, it took just a few seconds of staring at one another for recognition to arrive. Georgina Abbot was like another of Dad’s sisters – since they only had 22 children naturally! She spent much time with the family, even always present at family reunions and I remembered her well. She too recognized me and a delightfully happy reunion ensued. Chairs were promptly moved to the front and centre of the room and the rest is a blur of happy memories as we were embraced by Burin. From the 87 year old woman who danced all night… to CharlieEdwardsfromBurin – said as all one word, who seemed to take a fancy to me… to the woman who took a liking to Liz and repeatedly asked her to dance… to Georgina who continually supplied the background story to all we experienced and punctuated the evening with warm embraces and reminders of how happy she was that we were there – the evening was pure Newfie magic!

Me and CharlieEdwardsFromBurin

Georgina Abbot and Cliff

Havin' a scuff

With Georgina

Night on the bay

We returned to the Wheel House Inn completely spent. We could not have asked for a better day to introduce Cliff and Liz to Newfoundland. Cliff enjoyed grabbing this last picture of the Mad Blogger and Co. at day’s end. Now if only he could keep his islands straight – he keeps confusing “ya mon” with “yes b’y”!

The Mad Blogger and Co.

Day 13

Cliff and Liz have arrived! Shortly after 1:30 Newfoundland time they landed in the rain and fog so God did not make a liar of me after all! No matter the weather we set out for Burin. Along the way we laid proof to the theory that if you don’t like the weather in Newfoundland, wait a minute, it’ll change. It rained, the sun shone, we travelled through a fog cloud at one point that caused instant condensation to form on the car windows. Cliff and Liz were undoubtedly puzzled but took everything in characteristic good stride. Travelling over the isthmus that connects the Avalon Peninsula with the rest of Newfoundland we hit the always anticipated fog, thick as pea soup. I have often wondered if there are folks in Come-by-Chance who have never seen the sun?!! The island in fact boasts several peninsulas and as you pass over the small necks of land that connect them, fog is common. The narrowest part of the land connecting the Avalon is just over 4 km wide. That tiny band of land, perpetually foggy, unites the peninsula that is home to roughly half the population of the province of Newfoundland and Labrador.

In the moments when the fog is not, Cliff and Liz were able to appreciate the beautiful, barren landscapes that are characteristic of this part of the country. We stopped for a typical Newfoundland “supper out” at the Irving garage on the highway in Goobies – pronounced just as you would think! We had been told the food was great. We had decided to go with the traditional roadside fare of a hot turkey sandwich with fries, dressing and gravy. Actually the food was very “OK” but the milkshake I treated myself to was exactly as I remembered them as a kid. Thick, creamy and delicious … would have made any cow proud! The lemon pie though was worth the whole stop. Sweet and tart at the same time, just as lemon pie should be. The meringue was a mile high and while David and Cliff did justice to the pieces they refused to share, Liz and I happily devoured our communal treat.

We made a brief stop in Marystown, home of the shipyards, and stopped to have a look at a drilling rig, in from Hibernia for some repair or other. An Amish couple from Pennsylvania was happy we stopped so we could explain why “a drilling rig would be so close to land and where was the drill piece”! Guess the Marystown harbor wasn’t exactly what he had imagined the Hibernia oil fields to look like!

The Wheel House Inn was discovered without delay. A stroll around a local pond gave our legs a grand stretch and while the liquor store was closed, Blackhorse from the local corner store worked well as a toast to Newfoundland!

Day 11 and 12

I know, I know, it looks like we skipped Sunday. We didn’t and it was indeed another lovely day. A tad hot for my taste - in Newfoundland, who knew? Our day yesterday was spent visiting with people who didn’t want their picture taken and posted and I came to my computer to find a little cartoon taped to the front. It was a sketch of a dog leaning up against a dog house with a computer on his lap. A woman is passing by reading a sign that says – Beware of Blog … maybe a hint from my brother to cool it?

After Mass at St. Teresa Mundy Pond we were once again following our noses when we noticed Aunt Imelda gardening! Having discovered where her new house is apparently … we stopped for a lovely, impromptu visit. Leaving there we decided to continue with the visiting trek and had a reunion with Uncle Jim and Aunt Blondie. Blondie is not only Dad’s sister but also my godmother. The afternoon was spent catching up and being reminded that some things will never change, no matter how long you are away! My Aunt Blondie is a bit of an outrageous character to say the least and they kept us entertained for the rest of the afternoon.

We went back to Grant’s for supper since they had planned a BBQ with Ruth’s sister. We had a lovely evening. The brontosaurus was cooked to perfection. Grant is quite the backyard chef. And yes, it was brontosaurus. There has never been a cow roamed this earth as big as the steak he put on my plate. It could have served as a village feast somewhere!

Today, Monday, they are back at work and we set out for our last day of independent exploring. We are so eager for Cliff and Liz to arrive tomorrow. We have so much to share with them. I started a list today of the “musts” – it filled an entire page. Hope they are ready. We’ve decided they can rest when they get back to Ontario. Tomorrow the party begins!

Today though, we headed down the shore to Cupids. Cupids boast of being the first English community in Canada and are celebrating their 400^th birthday this year. Despite the fact that they have indeed rolled out the red carpet to welcome visitors, it is still very easy to imagine this hamlet as it appeared when John Guy first sailed from Bristol in 1610. Like so much of Newfoundland, life clings to the coast. Houses are literally built into the side of the cliff providing easy access to the sea. Liz sent a message the other day, a little concerned that we would have seen everything before they got here and not be as enthralled to visit again. They needn’t worry. I honestly believe that I could spend the rest of my days on any one of the million rocks by the sea and never tire of sweet air, cool breezes and magnificent vistas! David and I have often dreamed of returning to the sea. I know now it will never happen in any sort of permanent way since I would miss my beautiful children here far more than I miss the beautiful sea in Ontario. But I also know it will NOT be another 16 years before I return!

This evening we went to my cousin Sharon’s for dinner and had a spectacular time! I am so very blessed to have such wonderful people in my life. We can be apart for years and then get together like no time had passed. She and her boyfriend John were delightful, gracious hosts. The surroundings were incredible. Sharon has created an oasis in the city that is welcoming and serene, comfortable and inspiring. Combine that with magnificent company and the evening had to be a winner. Following a delicious dinner of Newfoundland salmon that Sharon did not catch – in a very funny story that had John describing her on her first time salmon fishing being like “one of those little things where you put a quarter in the back”. Apparently, though unsuccessful, she did not lack determination!

Throughout the evening we shared family stories and memories … I think that’s one of the most wonderful thing about families – shared stories. At one point we ventured inside to look through pictures and shed a tear for dear, dear Uncle Con, Sharon’s father. We ended the evening around a fire in the backyard with a glass of rum, raised in toast to a man we knew was smiling down, rather pleased at our reunion!

The one is for Mom! Makinson's is the town that is named in honour of my maternal grandfather's family.

The flags that fly throughout Cupids, advertising the birthplace of English Canada. Lots of Union Jacks as well - this one was huge!

My view for much of this (and every) holiday!

This house is literally built on the edge of the cliff above the ocean. Recently completed it boast uncovered windows at the back of the house that allow clear views of the ocean from every chair. Even laying in the bed you see no land, only ocean due to cleverly placed windows. Magnificent!

Notice how crystal clear the water is?

Happy to do nothing else! Here's how I spend much of my time.

My cousin Sharon and me with a glass of dark rum in memory of her Dad, my Uncle Con.

Sharon's backyard pond.

Still Sharon's yard ... she has done all this and it is incredibly beautiful.

Life is good!

Day 10

A day of reminiscences and of realizing that sometimes even happy memories can’t do justice to the reality of revisiting! As I left today for my reunion with high school chums, I wondered briefly if I was viewing the past with rose coloured glasses. Were those times as happy as I remembered? Were those people as wonderfully fun and refreshing as I remembered? Or, as is sometimes the case, had time blurred the sharp edges of reality? In fact, I indeed discovered why I do have such happy memories … these are wonderful, warm, genuine, fun people who literally welcomed one another with open arms. True, life has had its ups and downs for us all. The group gathered today though had stood the test of time - unchanged in so many of the ways that truly matter, sharing the little pearls of memory and experience that let us piece together a story, more complete than any of us had on our own. Many of us knew something of some of those unable to be with us so that their stories were also very much a part of the day. Driving home I was very aware of how our personal story is inseparable from the people who have helped weave the fabric of our lives.

I will apologize now to those following the blog who do not share part of this story since these pictures may not be of much interest to you. But for those of you who share these memories, enjoy the day in pictures…

Linda and Colleen

Karen

Colleen and Terri Lou

Colleen

Bev, Me and Trudy

Bev

Wanda and Colleen

Wanda and Cecilia

Shirley, Me and Linda

Brenda, Karen and Me (glasses now needed by all to see old pictures)

Bev (hilarious!) Terri Lou and Brenda

Bev and Me

Bev and Cecilia

Brenda and Bev

Cecilia, Brenda, Colleen, Maggie, Karen, Linda, Bev, Trudy, Kathy, Shirley, Wanda, Terri Lou

Happy Birthday to Shirley - 50!

Cecilia's brother-in-law Brian literally swept me off my feet when he arrived! Nothing has changed with him - OK a little less hair!

Karen and me

Wanda and me

Linda and me (both standing! ... other things that haven't changed :-)

Brenda and Me

Me and Bob Alcock (my high school Phys. Ed. teacher)

Terri Lou and me

Colleeen and me

... and dear Trudy who was responsible for the whole day - bless her!