Day 6

Today another dreary day dawned. Not to be deterred, we struck out with jackets but regrettably without toques and gloves – not kidding, could have used both!! Now I’m not complaining since we can dress warmly and still head outside. I am not under any illusion that I would be anywhere other than air conditioning if I were in Ontario right now.

We went first down to Devon House, home of the Newfoundland and Labrador Craft Council Gallery and Shop. Our friend Sharon (we had dinner there last night) is the Gallery Director for the Craft Council and we had a private guided tour of the exhibit. David and I had decided, before we left Ontario, that we would buy ourselves some Newfoundland art as a souvenir of the trip. Again today we have discovered two more outstanding artists. Karen Colbourne Martin has created a piece in Sharon’s gallery that causes a physical tug as you discover its splendor.

As Seen with the Listening Heart

I really can’t say anymore since I know Cliff and Liz are reading this and I don’t want to spoil the experience for them. I’m not sure I could honour her work with any kind of description anyway – if only I could write like that! A neat connection for Liz though in that Karen was a feature artist in the Canadian Art and Craft Exhibit for the 2010 Olympics! The second artistic duo I can say a little more about and offer a link (if anyone is interested). Knowing we had to take Cliff and Liz back, we made plans for a visit when they arrive and had Sharon guide us on what promises to be a pretty entertaining home studio visit as well. They are very whimsical artists and it makes me smile just to look at their work. Besides, they are fellow bloggers so I already know I’ll love them! Check it out … www.thegrumpygoatgallery.blogspot.com

From the Devon House we continued along Duckworth Street checking out are the little craft shops on that end of the city. Although it was cold enough to freeze you, being so close to Signal Hill I could resist no longer and we headed up despite the weather.

Standing at the top of the hill overlooking the narrows and the North Atlantic beyond, it wasn’t just the wind and cold that caused tears to run down my cheeks. Once a Newfoundlander, the sea and all its history is in your soul I guess. So despite the bitter cold we spent the next hour roaming around soaking in the views you see here. The history is awe inspiring. In 1762 Signal Hill was already announcing the time of day, warning the city of fire outbreaks and alerting officials of the approach of ships into St. John’s harbor. Of course on December 12, 1901 it was also where Marconi received the first transatlantic message. Many a time we’ve sat and watched icebergs just off shore. Apparently the reason there haven’t been any this year is the unusually mild spring they’ve had here. Mild how are ya??? But no matter, nothing could have improved the beauty and majesty of meeting of land and sea.

A shot across the narrows.

Me taking a picture ... the shot across the narrows - David!

Yup! That's me heading down one of the many paths while David stayed at the tower.

Here, if you look closely, you can see the many hiking paths that crisscross over the hills.

We left the hill to go buy some more warm clothes! As a book store can never be passed by, we ended up securing a copy of Where Genesis Begins, the latest collaboration of Tom Dawe and Gerald Squires. Tom is the poet laureate who charmed us with his recitations at the exhibit opening on Sunday and the gallery was none other than the Gerald Squires gallery. The review of the book described Tom Dawe as a visual poet and Gerald Squires as a poetic artist! Enough said! As I blog tonight, David continues to interrupt as he discovers yet another poem that just has to be shared! Hoping that we might be able to track them down again before we leave and have our copy autographed. We’ll see.

After a quick sandwich at the little mall kiosk next to the book store, where the soup David had was homemade turkey with delicious chunks of vegetables, and my sandwich was fine without peppers as long as the lady could substitute some other veggie because, “you need your vegetables love.” … only in Newfoundland you say? Our final stop of the day was a positively delightful visit to 633 Southside Road.

This was my grandparent’s home where they raised their enormous brood. Grammie and Grampie had 22 children and lived in a little house on the south side hills which became known simply as “633”. Seven years ago the old house needed much work from its 85 years of sheltering all those children and the tough decision was made to begin again. Over a three month period the old house was leveled and construction began anew. If I am completely honest I approached with trepidation. So many happy memories and my sense of family pride and tradition resided there. As unrealistic as it might be, sometimes you just don’t want things to change. 633 was like that for me. Much to my delight little had! The design from the old house is clearly evident in the new. The furniture and decoration was virtually unaltered. 633 as well as being a lovely home is very much a place of pilgrimage for the Horan’s – a place where my life is placed into the fabric of a much larger family quilt creating a tapestry that is possibly the most beautiful piece of artwork we’ve seen since we arrived. I’ll be interested to see how Cliff and Liz respond when we bring them for a return visit … is my reaction simply deep, personal family pride or is the charm palpable to all?

Here is what else never changes … the Aunts! Does no one age on this island?? I swear these people haven’t changed in 30 years! Yesterday when we visited Aunt Bernice I believe I forgot to mention that now in her 80s she is still cross stitching and smocking. I can’t see well enough to do that now! I mentioned that and she says she has no problem. Occasionally needs reading glasses for the cross stitch – imagine! But as we looked through pictures she was fine while David (bless him) went out to the car to get my glasses!

Back to 633 … Aunt Regina will be 87 in a couple of months and she is amazing! I have no hope of having inherited that gene since I’m not in that kind of shape now!

Claudine, Regina, Moya and me.

Nothing has changed about them. Despite the fact that we had arrived unannounced, the dining room was fully set and ready. The silver and crystal laying patiently in wait to serve our second lunch of the day … “no thank you we’ve had lunch” was not an acceptable answer. What do I know? I’m so glad that it wasn’t though as we spent the remainder of the afternoon in blissful reminiscence! I was sent to explore the house and told to poke everywhere. I know they understand, despite the fact it is their home, it is also in some way mine too. The house and I were reacquainted. I admired her changes, was comforted by her steadfastness in the face of change, and remembered why I always loved that house.

We finished with the official tour as they reminded, and at times revealed, the family history that I am so blessed to be a part of. Lord, will these wonderful, magical, incredible days never end?

Grampie Horan as he left for war.

Grammie Horan at 18.
Grampie's war medals.

The final shell casing from the 21 gun salute Grampie received from the Royal Newfoundland Regiment for a “great, noble and honourable man” on May 7, 1990. Grampie died at 96.

In case you can’t read this…it is the letter sent to Grampie by King George in 1918 when he was sent home, having been wounded in WWI. Hand written no less! It says: “The Queen and I wish you God-speed, a safe return to the happiness and joy of home life with an early restoration to health. A grateful Mother Country thanks you for faithful service. George”

Day 5

In a book I read recently, one filled with engagingly descriptive passages, one chapter began, “Morning broke, and the heavens looked ready to do likewise.” That was my first thought as I awoke this morning. Not particularly bothered since changing plans for weather worked out so well for us yesterday, we quickly adjusted. I often wonder why I seem less bothered by the weather than most folks. When people complain about the weather, my first thought is usually “so what?”I realize now that I’m back in Newfoundland that it probably has less to do with a sunny disposition and much more to do with the fact that growing up here, if you allowed the weather to control your mood, you might be miserable much of the time. Newfoundlanders certainly are not, so I guess many of us have learned to adjust!

Instead of heading out around the bay as planned we decided to do some visiting. After breakfast and a wet, dreary walk to Tim Horton’s (some things are necessary, even in the rain!) we headed out to try and catch our friends Len and Sharon LeRiche. They were dear friends when we lived in St. John’s. Len was best man at our wedding and we are godparents to their oldest son Matthew… now Dr. LeRiche if you please! We have kept in touch over the years. They visited us once in Mississauga. We stayed with them the last time in ’94. But the occasional visit and little parcels at Christmas are not enough to dampen great friendships and we have really looked forward to this reunion. They weren’t home! This time though I was smart enough to leave a phone number (OK, David reminded me but I still did it!) and we left to head to see my Aunt Bernice (who hadn’t gotten a phone number with the little note we left for her the other day!).

Bernice is my Dad’s sister. Four foot nothing and a bundle of energy! Now in her 80’s she shows little sign of it and hopped up (she has to when she is only four feet!) to embrace us with a strong and enthusiastic hug that once again belies those 80+ years. We spent a lovely morning reminiscing, looking through pictures and enjoying a rainy day together. By mid day when we were heading out to the garden to get a tour of the incredible amount of gardening that she still tackles, the sun had begun to shine – and while metaphorically that was certainly true, it had really begun to turn into a wonderful day! Change plans again and head out around the bay!

In that special way God has of letting you know that He blesses good decisions, Dolores called to ask what we were doing with the day just as we were heading back to the spot where the friendship began! We picked her up along the way and were on our way back to the “hood”!

I always chuckle when I call Holyrood “the place where I grew up”. Firstly, because sometimes I think I never did (grow up that is) but mostly because I don’t know why Holyrood gets that distinction. I didn’t live there longer than anywhere else. In fact, until Mississauga (and even there we lived in three different houses, neighbourhoods, parishes, etc.), I had never lived anywhere for more than five years. Nonetheless, in my mind, Holyrood is home.

The biggest change was that everything got smaller while I was away! The school, the houses, and the church – they were all massive, imposing structures when we left. Now they are all considerably smaller. Curious??! Smaller, and unfortunately sometimes sad. Our house for example is quite run down and it was a little funny to see it as one of the “rough lookin’ places in town!” Our junior high, apparently, has been closed for years, so it too was cheerless. All that said, it was still a totally awesome day!

It was curious how some things that I haven’t thought of in years came back with startling clarity with a little visual cue! When we were kids Dad had the keys to Crosbie’s summer home. I think because the RCMP kept an eye on the house throughout the year when they were away and Dad got it from them, we had access to an indoor swimming pool … unheard of in Newfoundland! I can hardly believe that I had forgotten, but I hadn’t thought of that pool in years. We came around a bend in the road and as soon as I saw it the memories came flooding back … the mind is a funny thing … or maybe that’s just my mind!

Our old house

Roncalli - my high school - the only Irish Christian Brother's school with girls!
Our junior high has been closed for years.

The climber in our elementary school yard. We were sure it was the same one from when we were there - complete with exposed cement footings! Those were the days! Kids were tough.

The swimming park bridge where my sister Nancy had a gash the length of her back from a nail ... remember that Nancy?

Our church where fire and brimstone was delivered each Sunday with alarming regularity.

Boland's Pond where I learned to skate and broke my tailbone.

Where it all began - this is where I was David's waitress - the rest as they say is history.

The beach view from our old house.

Looking the other way.

We returned to the city and between phone calls wishing David a happy birthday, Len and Sharon called and invited us to dinner. We ended our day counting our blessings, yet again, that we have friends that we have not seen in years, who can call us out of the blue, and we can spend a delightful evening as if time had never passed!

Day 4

Today was the grandest day. One of those days that sneaks up and catches you by surprise. You certainly couldn’t plan it. You seldom have them, except on vacation. You surely couldn’t organize it in a “planning binder” for your holiday!! I’ve come to think of them as “gifts”. Days that God takes over to assure you that He is in charge, and for that we should give thanks.

The plan today was to get up early and head out to Northern Bay Sands for a day at the beach. For those of you who have never been to this wonderful place, a beach in Newfoundland, especially on the Avalon Peninsula, usually involves some very coarse sand … grains the size of softballs! Northern Bay Sands is one of the exceptions … thus the name I suppose. When we got up this morning the days was gloriously sunny as promised but the wind! David and Grant decided that continuing with our plan would be akin to, “a trip in a sandblaster!”

With our plans ruined we decided to take advantage of the extra morning time to head to Mass at the Basilica. The Basilica of St. John the Baptist was started in St. John’s in 1841. At the time the Bishop’s intent was to, “erect a cathedral of unusual elegance, extent and beauty.” The design was inspired by the Romanesque churches in Italy and was one of the earliest examples of this style revival in North America. The majesty of the Basilica has always been breath taking and certainly leaves you with a sense of being part of something far greater and enduring. I sometimes lead the parade on complaining about opulence and pride on the part of the Church, but sitting in Mass this morning, I certainly could understand how someone could want to build the great Cathedrals as a testament to the greater glory of God.

Home after Mass and the day spread before us, I decided to check and post my daily blog. I have taken to writing them before bed and posting them in the morning. Thank you to those of you commenting on the blog. It is so cool for me to get feedback! Anyway, checking Facebook while I was near the computer I had a post from one of my cousins. George, or Jeep as we always called him, is a lawyer here in St. John’s. He is also a very accomplished artist. Today was the day of the opening of his gallery exhibit and clarifying details through Facebook, David and I, with beach plans cancelled, were free to head downtown to the gallery opening.

I had never met George’s wife Valerie except through Facebook. As we walked into the gallery we spotted one another and I was immediately enveloped in a massive hug as she assured the lady she was standing with that she had never met me before in her life! Valerie was absolutely delightful and might have been enough to make the afternoon except it hardly stopped there.

Without delay she arranged my reunion with George and we spent the early afternoon getting to know one another again as he shared his wonderful work with us. We discovered that the afternoon was also to include a poetry reading by the poet laureate for the city of St. John’s, Tom Dawe, and a musical interlude by Pamela Morgan, formerly one of the founding members of Figgy Duff. On the way back from fetching (yet another!) glass of wine – I haven’t stopped eating or drinking since I got here – I heard someone call my name. This was another, more distant, relative on the other side of the family (Eleanor Swanson for the family followers). She was with a woman that I remember from when I was a little girl (Mary Martin, again for the family followers) and we had a great union, exchanging email addresses and they have promised to email pictures they have from way back … I love the computer age!!

The afternoon performances were incredible. I can’t even put into words just how perfect the afternoon was. The poet was phenomenally entertaining. He read poems from his youth, his middle years and his recent work. He told stories with each one that not only contextualize his work but gave voice to his thoughts, motivations and struggles as a writer. At one point he allowed us a glimpse into the art of his

poetry by saying, “Everyone of my poems tells a hundred stories.” He shared his life experiences that led to his poem The Bear. At another point as he shared the importance of talk and of oral story in this writing process, he shared a very intimate and touching story about his grandfather dying. He told us that he doesn’t believe that he will ever be able to write the poem because the, “Talked it out.” He was an incredible gifted man who left you feeling he had shared a bit of his soul with you by day’s end. David and I are heading out tomorrow to find our own copy of his latest book, Where Genesis Begins. We agreed it had made our ‘must have it list”.

The combination I suppose of inspiring art, soothing music, stirring recitation, old family and friends and a cool sea breeze sliding in the window from the narrows made for a magical afternoon. Now I some might suggest it’s the wine talking, but here I am at day’s end, long after the sun has set and the wine faded and I am as content, yup that’s the word – content, now as I was throughout this glorious day. The day that never would have happened but for the wind.

Don’t know if anyone else is enjoying following this or not but I am loving going back over my days and it will be a great record for me when I get back home!

Today was pretty low-key. Helped with some gardening, ran some errands for Grant and enjoyed the fact that I could still maneuver around the city without the GPS. Things haven’t changed that much. Still crazy hills and one-way streets galore but since this is where I learned to drive it was an easy transition back.

Went back to have dinner with Dolores and John and spent most of the evening reminiscing and looking through old pictures. Funny that it could seem like yesterday and a lifetime ago, all at the same time.

Following dinner we went to Bowring Park for an evening stroll. What a beautiful park in the middle of the city. Was thinking that Cliff and Liz will enjoy it, having recently been in Stanley Park they can claim strolling across the country! Some pictures of Dolores and me in the park – in front of one of the dozens of Laburnum trees that are in full, glorious bloom, and the classic shot in front of Peter Pan. The statue was erected as a memorial to Betty Munn, godchild of Sir Edgar Bowring, when the young girl died in the wreck of the S.S. Florizel during a winter gale on the southern shore. It was starting to get dark by the time we left so next time we go we’ll get shots of the duck pond, the drinking trough and the Caribou statue that’s a replica of the one in Beaumont Hamel, France which honours the Royal Newfoundland Regiment.

Day 2

The mad blogger is at it again! While some might think it silly to spend so much vacation time in front of a computer, I have long wanted the chance to learn this. As a bonus I am also becoming a bit of a wiz at PhotoShop!!

Spent the day just wandering. We started out at Confederation Building (provincial legislature) where it was “cold enough to freeze the arse off ya”. No small wonder Gaspar Corte Real looks as stern as he does! Beautiful views of the city though, Cabot Tower in the distance and reviewing the history of the province but being high and open left us at the mercy of the wind. I had forgotten how cold a warm summer day could be! Got a pitcure of John Cabot just for you Andrew.

Downtown for some more wandering and lunch, and ate at the Duke of Duckworth for those Republic of Doyle fans who are following. The pan fried cod and chips (French fries in mainland speak) were awesome and of course had to be washed down with a pint of Black Horse. David said his fish and chips were perfect, “They don’t bother you with coleslaw.” Who knew coleslaw was a bother! I really had forgotten too just how incredible fresh fish is.

Shopping and poking around uncovered treasures galore including stumbling on the B&B Cliff and Liz have booked. Great location and views. Here’s a little preview…

Dropped in for a little visit with my best friend from grade 6 through university. We were so busy catching up that I just now realized that I forgot to take any pictures but will do that when we go back tomorrow to share a meal with them. The Sons of Erin are playing tomorrow night at Shamrock City so we just may end the evening there. Husbands didn’t seem quite so keen when the idea came up for discussion, but I saw the gleam in her eye! Stay tuned to learn which of the sexes rules the social calendar … as if that were a real question!

We ended the evening at Zapata’s with a tasty Mexican celebration of Grant’s birthday. Like most buildings downtown it's built on "a bit of a hill". Check out the parking outside the restaurant! Mom and Dad (thank you) sent money to Grant and David for their birthdays so we had a night on the town on them! George Street was hopping and we spent the evening at O’Rielly’s listening to Bill Kelly opening for the Punters who started at 11:30! I have clearly gotten old since apparently the night just gets going as I’m ready to call it a night! Good thing I had 11 hours sleep last night to prepare!! It was slightly embarrassing though since there was a fellow there, Stevie Lake, clearly a regular, tap dancing each time they played a jig … he was 80!!

Finally, home after a 16 year hiatus! It occurred to me this morning that we have in fact only been home once (in 1994) since we left for Ontario in 1982. I can hardly believe that time could get away from you like that. But given the fact that I turn 50 this summer and will be a grandmother before year end I better get used to the idea of the passage of time!!!

But I digress ... Newfoundland is exactly as I remember it. Everyone said that I would notice changes. While there are buildings and roads that didn’t exist on our last trip, Newfoundland hasn’t changed – YEAH!!! I was really hoping it hadn’t…

Our flight out of Toronto was uneventful. Delayed by about 15 minutes when the plane didn’t arrive and then by about 30 minutes on the runway when they had to replace a computer the pilot assured us really didn’t matter much except that it was, “Part of the navigation system and would help, to be sure it was St. John’s we landed in.” … gotta love WestJet! The wait was fine though. The night before we left I was lamenting the fact that I didn’t have family pictures to share. Mary-Kate stayed up (until goodness knows when!) and while waiting for the flight I browsed a scrapbook that made me cry … thanks Mary-Kate.

As we flew into St. John’s I suspected not a lot had changed since the cloud cover was thick enough we couldn’t see much. Just a little break to catch a glimpse of the narrows and Cabot Tower (not a long enough glimpse to get a picture, but they will come when we visit).

Leaving the airport the first thing I noticed was the smell. If smell had a colour, Newfoundland smells green. I know you are all laughing at me now and some of you have no idea what I’m talking about, but it’s the only way I know to describe it. It’s a sweet smell of clean … fresh … trees … sea … I don’t know but it’s one of the things I have missed the most. Newfoundland has a smell that I have longed for. Grant (my brother for those of you saying, “Who?”) says he knows what I mean. Apparently the air quality index is always the same for Newfoundland. He wonders why they report it since it NEVER changes!

The trees didn’t get any taller in my absence either. I guess it’s the combination of the weather, wind and rocky soil on the Avalon Peninsula but the trees are short and sparse. But check this out! I can’t lupins to grow in my garden at home but here they grow on the side of the road in a rocky ditch!! Too much lovin’ may be my problem!

In true Newfie fashion, I wasn’t in the province half an hour before I had a drink in my hand! Red for Canada Day and quite tasty! Then it was off the have a look around. A stop at MooMoo’s for the best ice cream in the world … just wait Cliff and Liz!

While we sat on the sidewalk and devoured our ice cream I noticed that the parked cars on the street were a perfect colour match to the row of jellybean houses! Same colour – same order. Check it out!

We came home and lay down for short rest before dinner. I was sure I wouldn’t sleep. TWO HOURS later, we woke to a steady rain, we’re in Newfoundland alright! Had a delicious BBQ, rain can’t stop my brother from cooking one mean steak! We went to bed wondering if we would sleep after the grand nap, nine hours later (!!) we are now awake, bright eyed and bushy tailed and ready to start the day.